The short answer to the above question is “sometimes” — more frequently, I’ve got to say, than I expected. I came away impressed not only with the quality of Missouri’s wine, but also with some of the values. There are wines on this list that are good by any reasonable standard and should be competitive on store shelves.
Twenty-one Missouri wineries put up two wines each. Most of the reds were Norton, and most of the whites were Vignoles. The nine that made real impression on me are:
Augusta Winery Vignoles 2010 — Clean, fresh nose. Lemony, maybe a little off-dry but very, very nice. This was my vote for best wine in the tasting — though no one else seemed to agree with me. $12.
Augusta Winery Estate Bottled Chambourcin 2008 — Musky, funky, with enough big fruit it seems almost sweet. Round all the way through to a long, slightly sour finish. This is a hybrid for Pinot Noir drinkers. $8. Seriously. $8.
Chaumette Vineyards & Winery Chambourcin 2009 — Nice blackfruit nose, very clean and fresh. Medium acid and tannins, with a tart finish that goes a long way. $19.
Les Bourgeois Vineyards Norton 2008 — Subdued oak, berries and tea. There’s complexity here, a very nice wine. $18. I’ve paid twice as much for a whole lot less.
Les Bourgeois Vineyards Vignoles 2010 — Grass and lemon and grapefruit, with a big fruity middle and a long, clean finish. The list price is $9. This is one hell of a $9 wine.
Seven Springs Winery & Vineyard “Seven’s Red Heaven” 2008 — This is sweet and fresh and was served chilled. The sommelier sitting across from me said it was the worst wine he’d ever had, but I liked it. It’s simple and a little goofy, as uncomplicated as a wine cooler and, at $17 a bottle, wildly overpriced.
St. James Winery Vignoles 2010 — Fresh lemon and peach nose that carries through onto the palate. Big fruit and a touch of sweetness that recalls an Alsatian Pinot Gris. At $10, I’ll take two cases. Summer’s coming, and this is wine for poolside.
Stone Hill Vignoles 2010 — A little weak on the nose, but sharp and well balanced in the mouth. Very pleasant and well made. $13.
Westphalia Vineyards Norton Reserve 2006 — Aged in Missouri oak, which is very present in the nose. It’s a subtle wine that starts big and ends small, but is subtle and pleasant. At $25 it’s overpriced, but not shamefully. Well, maybe it’s a little shameful.
It’s worth noting that the people around me did not concur with my taste. The egregious omission on my list is the Adam Puchta Norton, which didn’t do much for me, but that others loved.
Yeah, well: They can make their own lists.
